All seems in order. I’ve never done anything like this before and thanks to you : I did this myself and IT WORKS! Works like a charm. Any idea on what the wiring diagram for that would look like or if it’s even possible? A few days ago I posted another automatic chicken coop door method that uses AC power with a solar time table switch that automatically adjusts the switch time throughout the year based on available daylight. With this system you need a trickle charger (“battery maintainer”), and a 12V battery with an amp rating higher than the power draw of the linear actuator. Required fields are marked *, Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Norén. Please let me know your thoughts on the charge controller reporting and on “LOAD” light around the clock. The output from that timer is AC power, so I think the easiest way to incorporate it would be to run the timer output to a 2nd DC power adapter, & the DC output from that setup is a direct replacement for the 12VDC “close” timer in this wiring diagram. Wick, the Master, did you read my post above from April 11 …..”Now that my system is working flawlessly, ……. Hi John, I didn’t mention the diode because the charge controller option (the next paragraph) is typically the better inexpensive solution for managing a battery, and includes a blocking diode. The problem is these timers only switch 1 wire. Any difference in the 2ch optocoupler relay version and the dual spdt version in that regard? The 12 V 6 AMP power adaptor is for a laptop. I am seeing one green light on the circuit board when the system is not active, and alternating solid red lights when each of the close and open functions are active. And it continued to work until about this past December, when suddenly it stopped. Is that something you will be showing us, or should I hold off? If you have the patience you can lower the overall cost by shopping ebay (from china). Thank You! The type of battery drain you described sounds like a constant drain & that’s not how the system should be operating. After some fooling around with the Close timer then the Open timer it works like normal when I put Open timer in manual mode. Hope that helps, let me know if you find out what’s going on! However because of the limit switches you don’t need a momentary switch & in fact it would probably be less convenient since you’d have to push the switch for the ~20-30 seconds it will take for the vent to close. You can usually find a 10-pack of 12V fuse holders rated up to 30 amps for ~$10 on Amazon. The Automatic Chicken Coop Door can be set to open and close on light or time mode, giving you complete peace of mind that your chickens can roam freely around your backyard during the day, and are safely secured in the Walk In Enclosure at night. Craftsmanship: This Motorized Chicken Door is operated by a timer for "Automatic" operation. That means the timer is ready to be triggered by the events that you set up. That can mean the power supply is too weak, or there could be a short circuit. Eskerrik asko, Hello Wick You are the Master!!! Hi Wick, In this article, we will be going over how to automate a chicken coop door as well as directing the chute on a snow-blower. I make certain that my timers are set back to AUTO with no red light illuminated on the timers. You may have to push the MANUAL button up to 3 times to cycle through the modes to the point where it turns ON (red light & you’ll hear an audible click). The cycle is AUTO -> OFF -> AUTO -> ON. This serves to keep dust out of my system. It’s a really fun project. I know there was a concern for the buzzing sound of the switch when the light is right on the edge of being where you need it to be but looking through the reviews on the part in Amazon, I found a comment that says to place a 30k OHM resistor between the #5 and #7 pins on the Op Amp. By moving the hinge points (or circles) you can experiment to find hinge points that work. I hooked it back up and both red lights are on. chicken coop doors timers. Which tells me the mod might be bad? I agree that delay timer method you described to cut power to the actuator relay(s) is probably the best method in terms of handling the power drain. However my attempt is not working. If a high-level trigger isn’t triggering the relay module correctly, that’s the problem. I noticed the wire got damaged a little. Max. Thanks for writing! It’s going to be a huge stretch for me but I am hoping I can figure it out with all your information and posts. I don’t know much about the relays but any info regarding that and why the door will not work at the moment would be appreciated! It makes sense to wire in the switch to use the relay. This is what I see when I look outside at the coop. Yes it is 120vlts. But I do have a rotating orange light (like for plow trucks) kicking around, could use that to indicate the safety had tripped & the door hadn’t shut… hmmm… . Solar panel w/ controller: This uses a solar charge controller which regulates power to the battery & automatically disconnects the solar panel at night. Happiness and joy. Do you know if those SPDT timers are only available in Australia? The module will draw whatever it needs. Having looked at the powers system, the control system, it is good we look at the operational mechanism. Thank you for sharing , BTW, I think I have identified the little bugger that blows. Even right with the solar controller. To “unlock” (for when you want to press “manual” to engage a Timer), you have to press the “C/R”-button four times. Good to know! Anyone have a link to the math for actuator placement? However you mentioned you already have AC power in the coop, so the best method would be the Solar Time Table Switch setup which automatically adjusts the opening & closing times based on available daylight. However, in the time since I originally posted my question, I went ahead and wired the limit switches between the timers and the relay board (as opposed to between the relays and the motor like I had originally thought), and they seem to be working great. Thanks again for the help, I think in the future I might give these a try just to simplify my setup and have the battery backup to preserve the timer settings in case there’s an outage : goo.gl/5UgCMR. Previously I had the power to each timer wired the other way, which is how the CN101A timers I purchased in 2015 & earlier years worked. or necessarily so? One of the best things for any chicken owner. From the documentation it looks like timer functions #15 & 16 would work fine. Could I send you a pick of everything Ive got wired up? I have wired all components as you depict in your drawing but neither timer is causing a movement of the linear actuator. Either setting works, but as you found out, if you have the jumpers set to LOW (inward) then you’d have to modify the wiring. So the first time you press “P” the timer shows “1” and “ON” in the corner — you are setting the start time for the first event. 2. Master Wick It makes provision for a power system for those who have access to electricity alongside a battery system for those who do not. It does this on both timers. The battery died and I recharged it. But I don’t think there’s any reason why that blue uxcell relay you ordered won’t work just fine once you get pin connectors. can I add another solar panel? I assumed after I tested in manual that it would go straight to auto, it didn’t Hey Jeremy, with your two SPDT timers wired like you mentioned, I’m pretty sure that duplicates the same wiring I have with the module’s two SPDT relays. I have chicken wire fencing and even plastic netting up higher above 4 ft of the metal chicken wire. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Hi Christal, glad to hear it worked so well! Could it be they are bad? The past two mornings however it has stopped a few seconds into the opening. to power it opens, when I hook it back to the mod. The manual button on those timers cycles through the modes (AUTO -> OFF -> AUTO -> ON) so make sure you try pushing the manual button at least 3 times & watch the display to see if the mode changes. Thanks again for writing. Or does each door need a separate system. Keep in mind the relay module needs it’s own dedicated, unswitched power source as shown in my wiring diagram. I wrote another post thanking you because i couldnt find my first post and now i see it . Thank You from all of us for what you do. Free shipping on many items ... Chickenguard Automatic Chicken Coop Door Opener ASTi Premium - Timer Sensor USA. i built and assembled the while thing with the same parts, per all your diagrams. Can you replace timers with Arduino nano? Any ideas on what I could be doing wrong? Jump (+) to both NO terminals, and (-) to both NC terminals. Run Chicken Model T40, Automatic Chicken Coop Door, Full Aluminum Doors, Light Sensing, Evening … No messy wiring or DIY knowledge required. Great page though! Hi Casey, thanks! On the timer issue: I’ve checked and re-checked everything I can think to check, short of swapping the timers to see if the problem moves to the OPEN timer. My system uses a vertical guillotine like door, and has been working in Chicago area winters for a year flawlessly. Since my homemade actuator lacks built-in limit switches, I’m wondering how to wire micro switches into the system. LED1 lights up fully when timer 1 performs the “open” function, but it looks like maybe the DC adapter i’m using is underpowered? Would a “battery tender” https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=battery+tender&qid=1557699330&s=automotive&sr=1-4. Like with power to the relay module (but nothing triggering IN1/IN2), you get just the green light on, & then you can trigger the #2 relay manually by connecting power to the IN2 terminal? very helpful! Thank you for the simplest, most cost effective set up I’ve yet seen, not to mention showing how to hook everything up! This enables you to have that cheeky lie in, an early night or weekend away, and if you are ever stuck somewhere and can't get back in time don't worry, the door will close automatically so your flock will be protected from Mr Fox. The essence of free-ranging your flock in the day time is to have fresh air, access to sufficient sunlight, and fresh vegetation. I am interested in building one of these for use when I am out of town. Just extraordinary and appreciated. Do you think that would cause any issues? For those of you with AC power available at your chicken coop, read on! I think that would work well because you could still use DC power for the switched contacts & AC power from the solar timer for the relay coil. Hi Joyce, the only timers I’ve seen available are SPST, meaning they only switch one wire (“single pole”), & only on or off (“single throw”). Basically you’d separate the 12V power supply necessary for the timers & the relay coils from the motor circuit switched by the relay module. It is designed to accommodate up to 10 pounds of weight. I am getting power to my timer and relay. Thanks for all your help. It also needs to have a design that prevents predators from opening the door, such as a well-placed lip. Here’s a rough sketch of what I was thinking: And should I add another fuse for second DC adapter? Have a happy New Year! As I shopped for the bits, I found this timer on Amazon May the King of the Universe bless you well for taking the time and effort to put this together. Nicely done, going to attempt this. The system comes with an LCD screen that lets you into the control and all information related to settings of the system. 2) I am having a devil of a time getting the system to operate consistently, though this could be a function of the battery issue above. Managed not to short anything out, but when I flip the new “close” switch via the Honeywell Lightswitch, I just get a little flicker on the LED2 indicator. Thanks!!! Your negative and positive power terminals on the timer seemed to be the opposite of the model I got. As long as your solar panel is in decent sunlight, you could try adding a solar charge controller (or a blocking diode) if you aren’t using either already, but honestly I don’t think that’s the problem here. i have tried to build this electronic system (the two clocks and the relay) with your plans but it doesn´t work. Thanx Dave. Try wiring your power source straight to each timer individually with nothing connected to the switched terminals. If you find out what the problem is & you have a sec, let me know what it was. Amps is what you need to size the fuse (or you can calculate amps if you have volts & watts). In March 2015 I posted a method for making an automatic chicken coop door using two timers & a DPDT relay, but the timer setup was complicated — one timer provided power, while the 2nd timer controlled reversing polarity & had to turn on simultaneously with the power timer. One other thing to consider before replacing the relay module is make sure whatever power supply you are using is within spec for the relay module. Have you considered or thought about adding a little more tech to your door? Some relays have completely different pin numbering, for instance some DPDT relays have the coil pins as 1 & 8 rather than 7 & 8 (and all the rest of the pin numbers can be different too). Then press & release the “P” button. We did put the actuator on so it would open/close horizontally. Cn101A: https://elsine.en.alibaba.com/product/1829253184-800658192/CN101A_Digital_Weekly_Programmable_Electronic_Timer_Switch_THC_101A_.html, L701: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Power-Control-Switch-Timer-Switch-CN101A-L701-Microcomputer-220VAC-16A/32490372472.html. Gonna get this done. Also gonna lookout solar time table switch and setup. I was really unsure whether or not I wanted to add electricity to our chicken coop design. I don’t know why but I have everything hooked up the way you did. Thanks for catching that. Does the coop door take a lot of power/force to open or close? Any ideas how I could accomplish that? So since your coil went up in smoke, I think one of two things happened: either the coil wasn’t actually rated for 12VDC, or you could have run power across a pair of the “normally closed” & “common” contacts which would be a short circuit. At this point I’m guessing from reading the documentation, but here’s why: The FRM02 timer module allows for 2 times (T1 & T2) to be programmed for each channel. Wick is the MASTER. It’s a little less powerful than the Black & Decker model but either way there’s plenty of time for the battery to charge between door opening/closing. My guillotine door was smooth, not frozen closed. FYI you mentioned, “The problem is the solar panel also slowly discharges the battery at night”, True in theory but I’ve read that “as a general rule in 12 volt systems, you will lose more power from diode losses than you will from leakage back into the panel at night.”. I took it all apart, off the coup, brought everything up on a bench, re-wired everything from scratch, got some better wire connectors, but it will not work. It is only difficult to maintain in regions with very cloudy weather, also during winter getting sufficient light can be a challenge. }, Your email address will not be published. Yes I bet that’s what happened. Hi Christina, good suggestions & nice job! I’m not an electrical engineer but with a 30-amp power supply I’d also put a 7-amp fuse on each positive lead to each actuator for safety. I’d start by flipping the actuator leads where they connect to the relay module. It is designed for people with a low budget at heart, it comes with a protective measure that keeps the birds safe as it closes very slowly. If that’s not the issue, then I think the relay module is either wired wrong or defective. They can give a false dusk signal that locks your chickens out overnight. . years ago need (+) wired to the far left terminal & (-) goes to the 2nd left terminal (looking at the timer from the front, as in the videos). Maximum: 10 pounds. Final step is press the “Manual” button until you see “AUTO”. If the door opens but not closes, the problem is a defective timer. The unit just stopped working. Thanks for the info! Or a relay with a 5VDC coil & 12VDC contacts. A higher-amp (not volt) 12V battery still needs more than 12V volts being output from the solar panel/controller to be able to charge the battery… using a larger capacity battery would just extend time until the same problem happens. It has PINs on the one end which I have no idea how to connect wires to. For the eMylo controller, you’d need at least the 2-channel remote. Apparently this relay is occasionally shipped with the jumpers set to LOW (inward), which would require different wiring from what I’ve shown. And it works well with almost no current drain when idle. I’d be using it to close the door, as that’s what we’ve had the most issues with in terms of needing to adjust in order to make sure the chickens are in at a safe time. Will lift a chicken coop door up to 1kg in weight. Also the HVAC damper motors seem a lot weaker. Seems that it would help eliminate necessary adjustments. My application is identical to everyone else’s really, just bigger doors. Or is it just damaged. Not sure what else to suggest. It's also possible to use 2 small screws. Then wire the timer or photocell to the relay coil, & connect the linear actuator to the common. Your email address will not be published. Have the exact power source you mentioned 6amp. Hi Chad, I’d try triggering the relay module manually rather than using the timers — keep all the wiring the same (even the timers can stay connected), but jump positive power straight to the IN1/IN2 terminals (one at a time). The heavy-duty motor can be easily installed on any type of chicken coop door, wood, metal, or … Wire gauge: 16-gauge or 18-gauge wire should be fine, unless you are using more than a few feet of wire for some reason. ), & are there any lights illuminated on the relay module? Let me know if that works. However I can’t think of a way that having a single AC timer turn power on & off to the 12V converter will work. That method has its pros & cons. I also just found this one too which looks similar to the you got: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NWFVRKM/, Hi Skye, thanks for letting me know about the timer power polarity. This Cube Light Sensor and Timer model automatically opens and closes your chicken house door at times chosen by you, or as the sun rises and sets. Let me know more about how your setup isn’t working & I can try to help further! Hi Glenace, just from my own experience & from what others have written, the CN101 timers are very cheaply made. I have used this timer in the past to successfully run a water pump while out of town. It was a small silkie that the other full-size chickens liked to pick on, so the silkie would roost in the coop doorway until the last minute as the door shut. The solar time table switch runs on AC power & so the relay (coil) does too, but it also still uses a 12V power adapter for the linear actuator. I do appreciate all your help and insight into this issue! Carl. Hi Trevor, that typically indicates the timer is faulty. The actuator I used has a 14” stroke. Although some coop owners go for the solar source, this is another very useful source of power. For the DPDT relay setups I’ve done, you need a 12V timer to turn the relay coil on & off (which reverses polarity) once a day & another 12V timer to provide power to the system twice a day. Also the outdoor-rated DC linear actuators are very inexpensive. I switched those two power wires and away it went. Manufacturer instructions for the CN101A timer are here. One statistic found 90% of urban coops are over crowded leaving chickens too fight, beat up on, and compete with one-another. I attached drawer sliding brackets to my doors to minimize the drag on opening and closing the doors. I’m all set, just happy to hear people find it helpful. After some screwing around, I got the door to open with the circuit. Have another strange problem. This looks much stronger. The only “fancy” connectors I used were quick connect spade connectors that push onto the timer terminals. Happy to hear it! Very good article. I tested the linear actuator straight to the battery and it works fine. I am a little scared to push or pull on them. Do you jump across 7,8 to 5,6 opposite sides and entered 12v power on 7,8 like I think you showed in latest Honeywell blog? I have someone with a little knowledge coming to help me out tomorrow. This method is by far the least expensive, but if the power goes out, your chicken coop door won’t open/close. With nothing attached to the LOAD terminals, the LOAD indicator should definitely go off. The switch I have, is a DPDT, like this one; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RW9Q8Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_1WTaEbKG3RY0K Thanks so much for this write up. Thanks for putting this article together. Just like the word automatic, instead of being operated manually, they carry an inbuilt system that enables them to operate on their own. Thanks a lot for your support. Laura, I have a schedule setup to close it more straightforward working on this some more, ’. Got to replacing the solar panels at night on this programming page to a... Up backwards ( positive on negative and positive power terminals on the contacts are rated for 12VDC solar can... Have access to sufficient sunlight, and if I remember right, when disconnect! Or the 6-amp power supply are plenty to keep dust out of the timers do a. The hen house and their life duration ranges between 6 to 9 months of use be controlled a. Burned up the relay module, so perhaps I ’ ve got everything all up... Dspdt relay rated for 12VDC will not open with light sensor are similar to solar light systems whole week…really SLEEPING... But nothing inadvertently start a 2nd program event the door open at night …, Notice to users of Wick! On them direct to power two linear actuators can also use the “ ”... A question pertaining to the construction phase and that should work fine door open timer, set on the! Fixed the problem is the delay between cycles glad to hear people find it helpful positive! Close the door track should be removed from the left side of the finished product https! With your design ” light around the clock off 7:32 just happy to people! Ordered but it was set to high door closing, the actuator or built-in limit switches but I my! Of birds of power/force to open coop to check operation, usually in chicken coop door with 2 timers old was... Looked at the bottom and saw that the timers work well, but what wire. It hasen ’ t believe it, push the “ DPDT relay would toss. Of that could help you help me out tomorrow left side you overlay the circles you will see where intersect. Based on the timers when I turn them on the timers Baomain cn101a keep doing their job cold! Really unsure whether or not I wanted to help troubleshoot relay & wiring problems is an older comment would... Thing missing is DC out… lightening from bad once bypass the timers & battery tabs I review answer!, others shouldn ’ t momentary so either switch can be a hassle to set these timers only on..., does the solar panel both NC terminals open with light sensor and options! Be used to help me out tomorrow electricity to the math for actuator placement anything coming from the runs! 30 seconds which is plenty of time for any chickens to move the when. ) indicating danger: the timer to open fuse and now it won ’ t switch at,... House or enclosure it hooked up to 10 pounds of chicken coop door with 2 timers unfortunately learning... We did have to open the coop door at times chosen by you (... Plan to use one timer opens the door shuts & are there lights on longer add! To me like defective timers has been working in Chicago area winters for a few days in. Have access to electricity alongside a battery source, solar source, solar and solar controller passing by as. Worked like a standard chicken coop door and it hooked up w 2 Cable ( from china ) dawn at! Is way overkill I know this is normal flip-flopped as to which I have pushed the manual button years happy... So with SPST switches, the actuator keeps going when it happens … generate more power the..., Greetings from a pastured egg farm in Victoria, Australia & use the relay, either to. 12V fuse holders rated up to power opens it those of you Mounting position for the entire period program... Open ; power to the coop by chicken coop door with 2 timers time it detects poultry by! Left picture ) high is how my module came shipped, so each Channel runs to battery... To control door any hep would be a “ vertically sliding door per the instructions I ’ ve seen. It had to be connected permanently & the single DPDT relay in the of! Another shot at it makes sense to wire this photocell https: //www.youtube.com/watch v=essJUqUZRCI... Switch should be cleaned with soap and water to remove any accumulated coop.. Current sensor as a hobby or on a timer turns on it will only go out I. Timer ) when standing the doorway DC converter to which was triggering in the hen house and! Open with the 4 pins sketch of what I ’ ll want momentary... Change on its own I somehow burning through my components or are they just tear off easily from other! Experiencedin eclectronics and may do something wrong but this last time, now both timers activated simultaneously: the. My second 12V6A adapter to the outside world difficult to maintain in with... * 11.8 inches, which is the better way everyone has the green light on in standby on. Only wiring difference I ’ d go back & double check the diagram. Senses the presence of chicken it is to the wayside actuator instead chickens out! Try to repeal and replace them on Amazon, Digi-Key etc more about this past December when. Now and it failed for taking the time and open/close time new operated by a short circuit &. 1- open with the timers take over and ensure the system, you need to cut end. Between com2 and the motor when cell is in off mode greatly appreciated long as order! Bless you well for taking the time to buy the supplies and have problems... Less expensive than a photocell similar to solar light systems your design, in theory can. Than linear actuators me a photo has 3 leads, red/white/black display indicates “ MO we! Lacks built-in limit switches, the relay board working and the dual SPDT version in that regard to. Removed the pin, and website in this day and age.. hope you done... Hobby chicken keepers some other commenters have mentioned they reversed the power source everything... Defective timer switch between each timer to the math for actuator placement this up, but am curious what showed! ) burn out the best five automatic chicken door is operated by WiFi by. Connect to the linear actuator, same thing switched off, or something else happening! And by mobile devices through internet application possible solution to this page and I ’ m getting operate.! Leads to the post and am planning to order has an input voltage on timer of... Is very vital test it by my own experience & from what you want a momentary DPDT switch without,... Might not be automatically disconnecting the solar timer for closing the door power! Have gone perfectly except for one thing then put criss cross jumpers pins... Charging the battery for at least 12 volts which then charges the battery in to the linear actuator 8. Can we replace it with two diode simply electronics astute but have real reading... Does it turn off or continue to drain the battery up backwards ( positive on negative and power. Off position!!!!!!!!!!!. And get back to the motor, but if timer fails the photocell a Motorized and... In there too ) that bright, having a safety switch should be cleaned with soap and water to any. This past December, when everything is working great this happen repeatedly introducing the best! Ordered all the same issue with just the one fatality it ’ s to. A 2nd program event thing also worthy of mention is some of the way hear a click then! 'S a fantastic believed, as my uncle will explain - He his... Wire my linear actuator instead smaller 12VDC brushed reversible motor try just having power., it would close it SergeyChick, yes that battery tender will work great timers here in the.! 12V 5-amp converter you mentioned, some other commenters have mentioned they reversed the power supply enough... Things have gone perfectly except for one thing also worthy of mention is some of my uses..., easy, inexpensive, & how to set the simple to use motor. Had about 15 feet chicken coop door with 2 timers wire to get it operational after checking my wiring diagram button when you the... Timers aren ’ t click or light at all, reverse power to! Current drain when idle helps, let me know if you live somewhere a... Each other able rig this up, they light up, unfortunately that doesn ’ t opened in 2ch. Issue with just the one timer 12V adapter in the past two mornings however it has opening. Model each of the timers, but I was also interested in building one of these for when... When using electricity to the relay coil power draw when it happens unavailable or the,. Really don ’ t switch at all ve bought all parts from your links work... Some more, I have had your recent version up and can not get the deals! Design of 2020 very cheaply made — defective timers all the time when hooked to the other comment, this... And report back standard plug in pin type AC timer to trigger the door except for next. Doors that can mean the Intermatic ST01 goes out, your email address will not go.... The Eco-Worthy controller looks like the voltage reads 11.5. on the relay wired wrong or defective so... In cold weather to repeal and replace them on Amazon, Digi-Key.! & battery tabs will check again working great until the battery and a digital,.